Madder red is an ancient dyestuff, extracted from the root of the
madder plant, growing in many countries around the world. The secret and
devilishly complex Oriental dyeing process to obtain the lustrous
colour known as Turkey Red was avidly sought by Europeans, from the time
before the fall of Ancient Rome. It was finally cracked by the French
about 1760, who were able to dye wool, silk and cotton bright red. After
the lowlands of the Caspian Caucasus had been subdued by the Russians
in the early 1800s, madder was cultivated there and rapidly became the
main crop. The quest for Turkey Red went hand in hand with an avalanche
of scientific research, which not only improved the yield of dyestuff
from the roots but led to its chemical synthesis and in 1870 the
collapse of the world-wide madder industry. Many of the nascent dye
companies grew into chemical giants of our time. Further regional and
cultural background may be found in Chenciner's Daghestan: Tradition and
Survival, also published in the Caucasus World series.